In my 2013 keynote address, I told the European Digital Wine Communicators Conference that accusing a winemaker of manipulation is like calling your wife a whore because she’s sleeping with you. What, she’s supposed to do her duty and then feel bad about herself? To place winemakers in this moral dilemma is to inhibit the acquisition of the necessary skill set which leads to invisibility of artifice and proper presentation of terroir. Thus the accusation itself fosters poor practice, the real source of clumsy winemaking.
Discussion on Chris Kassel's Facebook page in response to his question "Is the idea that some decisions made by winemakers are ‘natural’ versus some which are ‘technological’ just romantic schtick pushed by marketing people who have no idea how wine is made?"